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01 09 03 |
News 1 US: Hi guys
> 4.45AM /
Liège-Paris-Miami I
close the door turn off the electricity go into the street with a
heavy heart, my world tour is beginning... 12 kg on my back, 7 on
the belly, a trolley filled with books and guides and you all that I
bring with me. >
6.30AM/ Desk Air France Station Midi Bxl Thalys to CDG
A man asks if I can help his 80 year old dad to find
his way to Charles de Gaule Airport. I asked the traditional
questions: Where are you going? In Papeete. For how long? 7 weeks.
For tourism? to meditate... He has still so much promptness and youth
in his glance. My thoughts are carrying me...
> 10.30AM Departure Charles
de Gaule/ Paris The
plane is full, US sportsmen coming back from the world athletic
championship
in Paris. 26°C is announced in Miami... > 2.00PM Miami
Immigration and customs formalities very long ... post September 11... > 4.00PM Miami - Greenview Hotel - Miami Beach - Art Deco
District The hotels of Miami can be compared to marshmallows. The
beach makes me think of the North Sea, long beaches bordered with
buildings, the ocean has the same scent... I acclimatize gently by drinking Margarita
at the Rose Bar of Delano (Interiors
by Starck), I passed through the large door... > To be continued... Miami
rise in me a bunch of contradictory impressions... We are a
hundred km away from Havana. Eldorado for thousands of Cubans and South
American the city of Miami is however number 1 of poverty (31 %
below the threshold). Zoe Valdes or Jesus Dias speak so well about
these Cubans who sometimes leave their shore at
the risk of their life for better or for worse. I took out a dose of consumerism on Ocean Drive: limousines as long as
trucks, glowing 4 wheels at each corner of street, Versace, Calvin Klein,
Victoria'S Secret, the longest legs, the sexiest tanned guys,
there is more Foot Locker than bookshops... On the other hand, the
return by Washington AV offers another face of Miami: Cuban homeless
looking for a place on the pavement to fall asleep. Sometimes a sound
coming from a restaurant or an
hotel reminds me of the Cubans who remained in Cuba. I remember my meetings with
old
singers in Cienfuegos (Cuba) their energy. And the amazement of the Buena Vista Social Club'pappys when they discovered New York
while giving a concert at Carnegie Hall. Gilberto Gil, singer and
Minister of Culture in Brazil and Mana (Mexico) are in Miami tonight
for
Latin Grammy Awards. I look at the ceremony with curiosity as if I
could find some brief answers there... but it will still take me
time...
To listen ¯:
Gloria Estefan, Mi Tierra To sleep: Le Greenview , http://www.rubellhotels.com/, beautiful,
white, floor in rooms, paintings of collection Rubell exposed in
lobby, 70 $/night, access to swimming pool of Albion (we can see
people who swims throughout portholes), free Internet access, service of
a great kindness, for more information look at Extraordinary Hôtels, Petits
Budgets, Ypma Townhouse, The Townhouse, http://www.townhousehotel.com/, very
trendy, the hotel white and red, is a little further away from the
center and beside a tower in construction (for the moment).
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Note 2 US:
From East to Far West
4.09.03: The car is expected on September 4 in
Jacksonville. I would take possession of it on the 5 in middle of
day. I spent the night in one of these motels at the edge of road, pink
and light blue motel, sleeping "between" two truck-drivers (translate, I
hear them snoring in the rooms next door). The bar is in the middle
of the car parking and the happy hours are not alcohol free. After I
carried out the customs formalities and obtained the
authorization on the famous carnet of passage, the car has to be
checked out by the Department of Agriculture (they want to make sure
that I did not bring any germs or mad cow cut with me). At the end
it seemed that only the GPS raised suspicion. In short everything was held very well. The car, a 4x4 Nissan X-trail,
was transported from Belgium on a cargo. This formula is less expensive than transport
by container. In the cargo, the car is simply attached on the boat and must be
empty. By container, the car is protected and you can charge your
stuff in it. The transport fee depends upon the weight and size of
the vehicle. In my case, the price was $ 625 plus administrative expenses
for one way. After having requested offers from several
shipping agent, I opted for Geodis which was very proactive. In
France, Allship is of very good advice. 5.09.03 From East to the West I leave Jacksonville for Los
Angeles and cross 8 states from East to West: Florida, Alabama,
Louisiana, Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, Arizona and California. On
the way, the same 3
straight outline. The landscape only will change: Floridian swamps where I
drive "on the water", Houston and Dallas mega polis in the
middle of nowhere and finally the Far West, burned, red. On my way I
share the road with of long convoy of speeding trucks, U-Haul,
Harley-Davidson, Vans (hauling their Hummer or 4 Wheels). Finally
nobody seem really to respect the speed limit of 75 miles/h. Fortunately this
time, no sheriff moustache around. It is as if I was playing in a
Road movie, as in Thelma and Louise, although I miss Thelma and Brad Pitt
has disappear from cheap motel a
long time ago. My elbow on
the edge of the window, blues filling the space of my cockpit,
infinite straight lines in front of me, I have an immense feeling of freedom.
The Road 66, that I had already
crossed a few years ago, took my breath away again because of the space without limits, immense deserts,
mountains, canyons, red, ochre, yellow, never repetitive... Where
the road joined the horizon, I imagine that I will launch out in the
vacuum of the sky. 1rst stage: New Orleans (Louisiane) Ella Fitzgerald, Armstrong, a rocking chair, a wooden
terrace of a house of grower, parquet floor, fans... Here, the
streets are called Dauphine, Chartres, Toulouse..., Louisiana is
French. 2nd stage Santa Fe (New Mexico) New
Mexico offers at the same time the mountains the endless forests and
the deserts. There are 6 Indian reserves, and
twenty Indian villages along the Rio Grande. While driving towards Santa Fe, I had the
impression of going to a magic city. Santa Fe,
"the place to be": Spanish, Mexican, Indian and
American. Set high up at 2200 m in mountain, it is characterized by its
architectural style: low dried mud houses color brick which
ignites with the sun. It belongs to the magical places earth
currents passing through releasing flows of positive energy. Writers and
artists have settled there for a long time. Art galleries are
everywhere. I came here to explore the Indian Market and find silver
bracelets crimped of
turquoise but I am too late. 3rd stage Sedona (Arizona)
Dazzling
Spectacle. From Flagstaff, the 25 miles road towards Sedona brings you through the
deep forest of
the canyon. Along the road, the sunset set the rocks in fire.
Like Santa Fe, Sedona takes advantage of the Californian
yuppies passion for meditation in vast spaces. They come here to
celebrate the worship of nature to find balance and harmony
between body and soul. The area is a center of convergence
of earth energies according to the Indians who came here for millenia.
Those zones of junctions and magnetism are called Vortex.
The Routard Guide tells you how when sitting on the Bell
Rock, you are sent directly towards the Galaxy of Andromède.
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News
3 US: Good morning, Babylonia!
09.08.03
Los Angeles
Road 66 ends in Santa Monica in
front of the Pacific. After crossing wind mills fields and having a
last stop in Palm Springs, true oasis in the middle of the desert,
I arrive in Los Angeles. What a pleasure to be with my friends
Bernadette and Pilou in their L.A. apartment. I find here a charming
and comfortable place with all what I like. In this smooth
atmosphere I am pampered by my hosts and I do not know if I will be
able to leave. It is as if invisible little hands wanted to keep me
there... I dream intensely of Bahia, Antigua, Oaxaca in order to kick
me back on to the road. Maybe because I am surrounded by doctors or
because I took advantage of the pampering too much, I caught
successively an ear infection and a dental problem. Finally Doctor Yi
and L.A. will keep forever a little piece of my molar.
It is not
because of this recent dental problem that I am angry at America.
This feeling can not be taking away as easily. Being
in L.A. where I sleep surrounded by books about America (The
History of American of Daniel Boorstin, the anti-American obsession
of J.F. Revel...) prompts again multiple questions. And, as
Bernadette told me, in those challenging times, it may be easier to
express the "cons than the pros"... I do not like an
arrogant America, obsessed by security, pushy marketing, empty
sitcom, hyper technology, constant need for competition and money,
the cult of appearance and the quest for white teeth...
But I am not
in this America right now. I am in a multicultural America. The
American that I meet here (or their parents) are from elsewhere and
brought into the US a little bit of their native country. Bernadette
is from Belgium, Pilou Laos, Ray Mexico, Antony Burma, Miguel
Mexico (The important Mexican population of Los Angeles makes
it the third Mexican city in the world after Mexico City and
Guadalaraja), German is from Argentina, Zemba Zaire, and last but
not least David "American-American" from Texas with
another "basket" full of knowledge and tradition. I live
in Koreatown. In a Hollywood coffee shop I listen to poetries,
a Swahili ballad, a rap song, a guitar melody... We spent
September 14th in Los Angeles celebrating a little bit in advance
the anniversary of the Independence of Mexico. Mariachis,
Oaxaca dancers (and a few margaritas) transported us over there. At
the restaurant Miguel asked a few traditional singers to offer us an
almost private performance at our table. Soon we were singing
together Cu Cu rru Cu Cu of Lola Belltran, the llorona of Chavela
Vargas, a song of Mana and a typical song of Los Mochis...
What I
appreciated also in this a country is that it gives to everybody an
opportunity including to the illegal immigrants (3.000.000 in
California including 300.000 within L.A.) This is even more tangible
in Los Angeles where an administrative assistant may become the head
of marketing department. You encounter prospective actors and scenario
writers waiting for their lucky day. Do you know the last joke in
L.A. : when somebody tell you that he/she is an actor, ask him/her
"at what restaurant?". The atmosphere is full of ideas and
projects. You have this feeling that everything can happen, that the
future is like a slot machine and that if one play long enough the
machine will eventually giving you the money or blowing up!
To drink a coffee:
EspressoMiCultura,
www.espressomicultura.com
To
enjoy Art and and listen to jazz Friday night (for free): Lacma,
www.lacma.org
An
hotel: The Standard
www.standardhotel.com
A cocktail:
Sex one the beach: 1
oz. Vodka, 3/4 oz. each: Chambord & Peach Schnapps, splashes
of Pineapple, Orange and Cranberry juices Shake
with ice & serve.
Catherine, Los Angeles, September
22, 2003.
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