Map Guatemala

News 12 Guatemala: Tikal, the adventure at the end of the world

After Tikal National Park gate, the road, path and finally track, enter progressively into the jungle.  The park is 6 square miles large and covered by flora. Four thousands monuments were found and only a small part of the jungle has been explored. Two hundred fifty birds species nest here. For a while I walk surrounded by coatis and multicolored turkeys. All of a sudden, almost by chance, I reach a large Plaza where stand, face-to-face, the Temple of the Jaguar with its 9 platforms, and the Temple of the Masks. The path continues towards Mundo Perdido.  Everything here is covered with moss and shrubbery. Children point toucans and monkeys to me. After reaching the top of temple IV (212 feet), thanks to a staircase made of wood, I sit and meditate vis-à-vis this view of birth-of-the earth, with temples surfacing the Péten Forest. I end up alone and lost between the temple V and the exit. The vegetation becomes very dense and ominous, noises get closer. My book reveals that jaguars live right here, and right here right now in particular I am not really willing to see any jaguar, especially when my only weapon is an umbrella. Fear of mosquitoes and tarantulas (although I am entirely covered with repellant cream, long sleeves, long trousers, covered shoes...), fear of snakes, and now jaguars, I am not proud right now; I cling to my Suunto compass... Finally I find the exit, the noise was only the cries of Howling monkeys and there were no mosquitoes.

I would love to see the animals leaving at nightfall. I meet Wendy, a New Yorker; with her and our guide-artist-painter Arnoldo we leave in the 4x4 car in the direction of Uaxactun. We will pass through Tikal’s park for 15 miles of improvised expedition. We will arrive in the darkness (6pm). Uaxactun is the oldest Mayas city; the sites are on each side of a runway for the chicleros. Children are playing soccer, people pull their horse aside to let us pass: we have the bizarre sensation of being in a lost place at the end of the world. Arnoldo is running from a site to another in total obscurity:  "This is the astronomical observatory. Here, solstices and equinoxes were calculated. Here is group B. Here is group E. Here is the oldest Mayas construction. Come up to the temple look at this stele!...". We do our best to light up the scene with the car headlights, my flashlight, and camera’s flashes. We see thousands of fireflies. In this sacred place, I imagine that they are old spirits, suspended in the air, observing us. We had a lot of fun, we did not see felines nor crocodiles, we end the day with a Guatemalan beer: Gallo; and we run to bed because, at Tikal, electricity is turned off at 10 p.m. 

To sleep in Tikal and wake up among animals’ humming you can install your tent at the Jaguar Inn or stay at the Tikal Inn. 

Tikal, 17.10.2003

http://www.destination360.com/tikal/guide.htm

Rio Dulce

Chicken bus

It is a special time for Guatemala: the first round of presidential elections is taking place on November 9. I am not an expert so I decide to be Sherlock Holmes and examine the pro and cons of going into Guatemala at this particular time.

Political atmosphere is edgy. The tenseness is due to General Ríos Montt’s candidacy because he is currently prosecuted for genocide and crimes against Humanity. After a putsch, he was in power from March 1982 at August 1983 i.e.the most repressive period of the guerrilla. He is under a constitutional ban to run for president – as anybody else who took part in a political putsch.

However, the general candidacy was considered acceptable because the 1982 putsch, which had brought him to power, took part before the 1985 Constitution that is still in effect today. General Ríos Montt created the FRG (Guatemalan Front Republican), which is the party of Portillo, the current president. The actual government retains its immunity at this moment, pending – maybe- judgement from Human Rights International Court.  The political situation is chaotic. Intimidation and threats are directed towards opposition activists. Last October, four journalists of the daily newspaper Prensa Libre, were kidnapped in Huehuetenango by the ex-PACs (Civil Defense Patrols). A few weeks ago, a police demonstration closed the border at Mesilla. Populist politician Montt offers 50 quetzales (3 $) per person. He states that he will bring back security but violence is its tool. He already reactivated the PACs (ex paramilitary forces) in violation of the peace

agreement. Foreigners are leaving the country. Spanish schools and hotels are deserted. Newspapers are expected to stop publication, and businesses will be closed during the election days: November 8, 9and 10. Gas stations and public transportation will be paralyzed too.

At the same time elections incorporate the guerrilla. One of its ex-leaders is the son of Miguel Angel Asturias, recipient of the Nobel Prize in literature,author of the "Men of Corn", whose work is devoted to native inhabitants.

It is hard to find out what exactly is going on. At INGUAT, the state tourism agency, people are unconvinced. Hotel managers and school directors are pessimistic. In any case it is recommended to avoid roadblocks, protests, large cities like Guatemala City, and the second election round. I should leave Guatemala before November 9.

10.18.03 Antigua is an old colonial town with low, colorful houses and paved roads. It is exemplary for Bed & Breakfasts and Spanish schools. It is situated at 1600 meters altitude and is surrounded by three volcanoes: Agua, Fuego and Acatenango. We walk surrounded by baroque churches and convents devastated by earthquakes. Antigua is an excellent base from which to travel around Guatemala.

I stay there for ten days and take Spanish classes. Me gusta español: a bit of French, Latin, add O and A, accents and exclamation points, ¿question marks? easy, no? During the week, half of the city is carrying books, doing its homework on Central Park benches, and stuttering Spanish at the Condesa Coffee.

Beginners speak only in the present tense and it seems so flat…I wish I could start a three-dimensional conversation.

To feel at home: Meson Panza Verde has a few rooms where you get spoiled by the abuelas who prepare yummy breakfasts and tasty coffee. Meson is known for its restaurant, packed on Sunday by the rich Guatemalans of the nearby capital. During the weekend: piano bar or Cuban jazz. Christophe, the world traveler Swiss chef finally lays down his luggage and pots in Antigua. Hector, the manager, knows everyone and gets an appointment in Guatemala City for my car service. To dance the salsa and to listen to live music: la Sala

10.25.03 Saturday afternoon, pick-up and chicken bus are jam-packed with Indians from the high plateaus, their chickens, and fruits. They go to Chichi for the country’s most touristy market. A town of tents and covers is built overnight. The 8-year-old little merchants are so talented that they would sell you the Webster encyclopaedia in quiché language. In the evening, we all sit in front of the Santo Tomas Church to eat tamale and drink ayote, juice of yellow or white hot corn, shared with young beggars. The effervescence continues through the night, fireworks go off everywhere; the Indians are talking and drinking...

26.10.03Sunday, a mystico-religious environment surrounds the quiché village. Women sitting on Santo Tomas church steps sell arums and gladiolas for the cult, while men on the front of the church pour out incense whose volutes are supposed to unite the souls of the dead and the alive. At midday, women fall asleep in the middle of their huipils, embroidered tunics with Maya symbols such as flowers, rhombuses and zigzags representing the sky and the lightning God. Coloured fabrics, wooden masks, and braided snake belts surround them also. Men are staggering... Later, a young girl leads me through a corn field to Pascal Abaj oratorio (the stone of the Sacrifices) in order to attend a Maya ritual. We climb to the top of the hill. Ashes are still burning... but no ceremony this Sunday. The Chichi market is an excellent place to browse rather than buy The items are made in factories for the gringos and are extracted from large plastic bags: handbag, case, hammocks, shorts, same things from stand to stand. The markets of Solola, San Francisco El Alto or Zunil are more authentic and more agreeable.